São Paulo – 8 Must-Eats in The Concrete Jungle
Sampa
has 12 million faces – the whole country and half the world are somehow crammed
into one sprawling, seething mess. It can be daunting, but if you
know where to look, you can find the culinary capital of Brazil or even South
America here.
Açaí bowls
The fruit itself is born in the
Amazon rainforest 3000 kilometres to the North, but the Brazilian Southeast has
made açaí na tigela (açaí bowls) its
own. With heaped-on sweet milk powder, honey, banana, granola, strawberries,
mango, or basically anything else you want, açaí is a pervasive classic in
summer. Try Frutaria Paulista, at the Western end of Av. Paulista for a true
Sampa experience on a hot evening. You won’t need to look far: acaí options are
on every street-corner boteco in the
city.
Head Chef Alex Atala’s fame grew
after his stand-out episode on Netflix’s Chef’s
Table series. DOM, Atala’s main restaurant, offers adventures into novel
Amazonian flavours, juxtaposed with unpretentious Brazilian classic dishes from
all regions, in a Michelin-starred setting. Its price tag is medium-high for Brazil,
but may not hurt too much in foreign currencies. DOM is great for a special
occasion, like a first night of a trip or a date night.
Pinheiros and Vila Madalena are
young, happening parts of town. Moderately priced dishes from the
Brazilian Northeast – moquecas, acarajé, sun-dried meat and seafood – are prepared to a high standard here.
Brazilian Northeast – moquecas, acarajé, sun-dried meat and seafood – are prepared to a high standard here.
A popular spot for the famous
cuisine of Minas Gerais State located on the market square Praça Benedito Calixto. Mineira
cuisine is basically comfort food: from the omnipresent pão de queijo to tutu beans, torresmo pork
crackling, meat dishes like costelinha spare
ribs, and lombo pork loin.
Arrepas
and Patacones are done in an
informal setting, also just off Praça
Benedito Calixto. Sabores specializes in the cuisines of Northern
South-America, focussing on Columbia. The waiters are imported and the food is
satisfying, offering a refreshing change from day-to-day Brazilian cuisine.
Brazil has the biggest Japanese
population outside of Japan, with the greatest numbers of nikkeis living in São Paulo, and especially in the Liberdade
neighbourhood. The initial wave of immigration happened during the coffee boom
years of the early 20th Century. Aska doesn’t take reservations and
the queue on some nights can last an hour. You can’t sit down unless all
members of your party have arrived, and service can be challenging, but this
all becomes part of the charm when you are rewarded though with a bowl of
authentic Japanese lamen.
Perfectly seasoned ceviches and
hearty chicharrónes served in unpretentious surroundings, Rinconcito is going
from strength to strength, especially among São Paulo’s Peruvian population –
always a good sign. Edgar Villar, the Peruvian chef, and his team provide great
service and value for money in São Paulo’s old centre, and now five other
locations around the city.
You might not think of hamburgers
and fries when you think of Brazilian food, but Brazil is the world’s second biggest beef producer after
the USA, and Paulistanos love hamburgers.
Z Deli is currently ranked second on Guia do Hambúrguer’s best of 2017, so expect
company. Book ahead, or get behind a long line of hipsters, bikers and couples.